Mobil 1 FS X2 5W50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil is our tried and Always consult your owner's manual to check recommended viscosity grade and. Mobil 1 5W Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil is our tried and trusted Always consult your owner's manual to check recommended viscosity grade and . Mobil 1 5W50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil is our tried and trusted Always consult your owner's manual to check recommended viscosity grade and.
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Joined: May 21, 2012 Long story how this happened, but I ended up with the Boss up on ramps, drained of oil, but no oil to put in it. I called my wife and asked her to stop at NAPA on the way home from work. No big deal, I figured, so I filled the car, started it for a minute, checked it, and then decided it looked too much like rain to go to the track anyway, and put it back in the garage. As I was cleaning up, I looked more closely at the bottles. It said "Specially formulated for classic cars.
Yet the synthetic 10W grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 grade based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey - like at low temperatures. This is the opposite of what common sense dictates. This is worth repeating: The synthetic 10W grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil.
As one can see this is no easy topic. Are you with me? Motor Oil Part Four. It is not what we thought. Now let us finish talking about the differences of mineral verses synthetic oils. I will compare the same weight or grade of oils showing that the operating viscosity is the same whereas the startup viscosity varies: Mineral oil: Oil type Thickness at 75 F There are none in this range Synthetic oil: Oil type This is perhaps the best thing the synthetic class has over the mineral based oils.
People sometimes use a thicker oil to minimize gasket leaks.
This seems obvious to me. Repair the gasket. Do not destroy your engine with an oil that is too thick for proper function. Some people have said they use thicker oils because they only use their cars every 2, 3 or 4 weeks. They are afraid that thin oils will fall off the engine parts and result in a lack of lubrication at startup.
Think about your lawn mower over the winter. I gets gummed up solid. The oil and fuel thicken over time resulting in engine failure. Anyway, oil on the surface of parts does not lubricate.
It is the FLOW of oil between parts that lubricates. Thick, old, waxy oil can only be bad. I have seen several car owner manuals that are now stating that oils do not need to be changed but every 7, miles or more. The same manual also states OR every 12 months, whichever occurs first. My feeling is that you can probably go 5, miles on the average in a sports car but you must change your oil in the spring time at a minimum, particularly up north.
Oils form waxes in icy cold weather. There is a permanent thickening of the oil. Some automotive manufacturers are backing down on oil change intervals to 5, miles or less and some advocate changing the oil at least every 6 months as well. I think this is because of the tendency for oils to thicken in very hot engines not ambient conditions, just hot engines.
Also because of thickening from the cold of winter and from sludge build up that cannot be filtered out. I truly believe that oil is much better being too thin than too thick. Over the years we have been going to thinner and thinner oils despite hotter engines with turbos and the like.
The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 grade oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 grade oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils. As it turns out synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness. Yet they stick better to engine parts. Again, this concept is the opposite of normal thinking.
The thickness of moving oil is measured in centiStokes or cS. Most engines want the oil viscosity to be around 10 cS at normal operating temperature. The really thick multi-grade oils have a viscosity of 20 cS at operating temperature. One is not twice as thick as the other, it is only 10 cS thicker. As we increase the heat from F to F the most commonly recommended oil thins from 10 cS to 3 cS. The thicker oil drops from 20 cS to 4 cS. Note that in a very hot engine the difference between the two oils is now only 1 - 2 cS.
In other words they have about the same thickness. There is little advantage to a thicker based oil as a 20W at very high temperatures. No, the 4 cS oil is not twice as thick as the 2 or 3 cS oil.
This difference is almost insignificant. There is a huge advantage of using the thinner, 10W at startup where 90 percent of the engine wear occurs.
At 75 F the thicker oil has a viscosity in the range of cS while the thinner oil has a viscosity of cS. The thicker stuff is cS thicker. This is a very big difference. I am using the 20W as my thicker oil example here. People are always asking about adding things as Slick 50 into the oil tank. Do not do this. The oil companies and engine manufacturers work together very hard to give you the product you need. Smaller, more efficient engines are getting us more MPG and yet better acceleration.
These engines last longer and are more reliable. Part of that reason is the nature of the lubricants. There is a lot of competition to get us the best working motor oil. Independent additives cannot make the oil better and in many cases makes things worse.
There have been engine failures as a result of adding some of these aftermarket additives to motor oil. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents.
These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. You do not need to use the exact oil type and brand that your car manual tells you to use.
Oils are pretty general.
They are not that different. Ferrari is married to Shell. If you call them up and ask to use Valvoline instead they will tell you that they have not tested that brand in their cars.
They only tested the engine with Shell oils. They cannot comment on the performance of other oils in their engines. This is a fair statement. I do have my bullet proof vest on. People often say that their old car manual says to use a specific Brand-X motor oil. They keep trying to locate these older oils. First, just about any oil brand that meets the original specifications will do. Second, all oils are much, much better now.
They are all much better. One could say that synthetic oils are better than mineral oils but it is hard to say that one brand is that much better than any other. Personally, I do stick to the big names.
It does not mean that small motor oil companies are not as good. They could be better for all I know. Using an oil that is less thick at startup has other benefits. Let us compare a synthetic 10W to a mineral based 10W Both give you a viscosity of 10 cS at normal engine operating temperatures.
They both thin to 3 cS at high temperatures. At 75 F tomorrow morning the story will be different. The startup viscosity of the synthetic will be 50 whereas the mineral based 10W will be Again, both are too thick at startup but the synthetic will cause less startup time period wear and tear. You will get a little better gas mileage too. The synthetic lubricated engine will turn over easier. This has the effect of using less power from your starter motor. It will last longer. Your battery has less of a current draw.
This will also last longer. The battery was discharged less during the start so the alternator will rob less power from your engine to recharge. The alternator lasts longer and you get a little better gas economy. The only downside of synthetic lubricants is the cost. They cost 2 or 3 times as much as mineral based oils.
This oil is thin enough at startup to have many of the attributes I just mentioned. Motor Oil Part Five. I will discuss driving in traffic jams in the Florida summer as well as racing in Sebring though there is no commonality. People lump these two driving situations together but there is no overlap. On the race track one usually uses all the BHP their engine can give them. You briefly step on the brakes for the corner then put the pedal to the metal the rest of the time.
Your oil will get up to F, but your cooling system is around F. The engine produces tremendous heat but can only pass it off so fast to the cooling system. The temperature of oil on your gauge is not as hot as it really gets. This temperature is an average with oil from different parts of the motor.
Some parts are hotter than others. It is said that some of the oil gets as hot as or F in these racing situations. In an earlier section I said that thicker oils are usually needed in racing situations but not necessarily. Remember that a major function of oil is to cool the inside of your engine. The pressure will go down some as well. This is OK as long as we have a minimum of pressure to move the oil. Some oil analysis are good up to 30,000 Miles 50,000 Kilometers with very little oil degradation in some good conditions.
If you have a Turbo. Be carefull on the oil change as the Turbos will go bad as they rotate at 200,000 RPM. Use the correct type of synthetic oil for the turbo. The TBN of the 30,000-mile oil was 3.
Blackstone Labs sends the oil through a spectrometer to learn how much of that oil—in parts per million—is made up of wear elements like aluminum which may come from pistons or the engine case , chromium from piston rings , iron from cylinders, camshafts, or other parts of the valvetrain , copper from bushings, bearings, oil coolers , lead from bearings and tin also from bearings.
What this means is that Blackstone has thousands of reports showing wear particle concentrations of certain engines using certain oil types for certain oil drain intervals. In its July newsletter , the lab decided to use this data to compare different brands, and the findings suggest that buying expensive oil may not provide much of a benefit to engine longevity.
There are several other issues that must also be considered as to why the manufacturers specific oil must be used with today's cars. One of which is emissions warranties are getting to be longer and longer. A PZEV can have portions of its emissions system such as the catalytic converters warranted for 150,000 miles. That's good news for the consumer who understands the details and takes proper care of their car.
So what does that have to do with engine oil? Some of the additives that make the oil pass it's initial testing if not fully formulated can flash off and be picked up by the PCV system and end up passing through the exhaust. SAPS which is Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulfur need to be controlled as they can degrade both O2 sensors and catalytic convertors when they make it into the exhaust stream. Lowering SAPS concentrations which means reducing useage of ZDP, and ZDDP for example in favor of Molybdenum, and Borate compounds can greatly enhance a motor oils ability to protect the engine, while reducing the vehicles lifetime contamination of important emissions components.
ZDP however is much less expensive for the oil companies to use than those other alternatives. Those 5,234 reports are associated with oil samples that, on average, were used in the engine for 3,900 miles before draining. Travis then broke down those 5,234 reports by oil type, which owners tell Blackstone when submitting their samples.
The second row in the table above shows that 1,321 samples were Rotella T6 5W-40, 483 were Mobil 1 5W-30, 184 were Subaru brand 5w-30, and so on. The takeaway, Heffelfinger writes, is that despite the additive contents rows nine through 15 being different in part, because different brands use different additive blends that all accomplish the same goals , wear across the board seems quite uniform.
Iron is between 8 and 11 ppm all across the page, and copper is between 7 and 12 ppm for each set of averages. Other metals had even less variation, and no single oil type had the lowest level of all metals.
What the chart shows it that, even if you normalize the iron wear by mileages on the oil sample, the difference across the board—the lowest wear rate is 2.
In other words, for every 1,000 miles, the Rotella T6 wears just over one half a part per million slower than the Royal Purple. You can read the full analysis here. For example, there might be a bigger difference in wear rate among brands if all of the oil samples had much higher mileage on them. Still, looking at wear metal contents for different engines, and breaking results up by oil type is an interesting study. Engine oils have to meet certain specs to be API certified, and even the cheapest of modern oils are known to do a good job at keeping engine wear down modern engine designs have a lot to do with this, too.
Plus, something tells me even it is better than what was available when the earliest version of that inline-six was first designed in the 1960s.
Professor of Physics California State University, Los Angeles The central dogma of motorcycle oil manufacturers and distributors has always been that motorcycles put different demands on their lubricants than do automobiles. In particular, they point to the facts that motorcycles run at higher temperatures and use the same oil in their transmissions as in their engines.
The transmission gears supposedly put extreme pressures on the oil molecules, thus causing the long oil polymers to break down. High temperatures can have the same basic effect, as well as additional effects such as the increase in oxidation products. When the size of the oil polymers decreases "cut up by the transmission gears," as at least one manufacturer claims , the oil thins. In other words, its viscosity decreases, as well as its ability to lubricate properly.
For example, what started out as a 40-weight oil could effectively become a 30-weight oil, or even a 20-weight, after prolonged use.
What this means, effectively, is that if the claims of the motorcycle oil producers are valid, they can easily be verified through measurement of viscosity changes on various oils as they are used in different applications.
Measuring the viscosity drop in oils did not seem like too difficult a task, especially since measuring viscosity of solutions of large molecules is a common practice in many biophysics laboratories - mine included. My lab had all the correct equipment - in fact the viscometers that I normally used for solutions of DNA and proteins were originally designed for oil measurements.
John C. Since the validity of these tests is likely to be called into question by motorcycle oil marketers, following are Dr. Woolum's lab notes and explanations of the procedures he followed. Viscosity is a measure of the friction between two layers of a liquid sliding relative to one another.
The basic principle of many viscometers is to measure the time required for a known amount of a liquid to pass through a capillary tube under gravitational force. The time taken will depend on the viscosity and the density of the liquid. The more viscous or less dense the liquid.
Therefore in reality, this kind of viscometer does not measure viscosity directly, but rather the ratio of the viscosity to the density of the liquid being tested. This ratio is called the kinematic viscosity. The viscometer used for my measurements was an Ostwald-type, Cannon-Fenske 200, designed to measure kinematic viscosity in the range of 10 to 100 centistokes a centistoke is one-hundredth of a stoke. The oils being measured had kinematic viscosity between about 10 and 25 centistokes.
For the test samples, I decided to use two types of oils designed specifically for motorcycles and three types of fairly standard automotive oil. Each of these oils was run in the same motorcycles 1984 Honda V65 Sabre-under as near to identical conditions as possible. The oils were sampled for testing at 0, 800 and 1500 miles each. As temperature has a strong effect on viscosity, I had to make certain it was carefully controlled for the experiments.