Paterek Manual for Bicycle Framebuilders ebook download. Paterek Manual for Bicycle Framebuilders book download download ebook pdf download ebook. disregard the following instructions. More than likely it doesn't fit. That's ok, because it will help you position the crown. File an area all the way around the. Doing some clean up and I found this copy of "The Paterek Manual". If I was so inclined and had time I'd scan musicmarkup.info it but it's a lot of pages.
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PATEREK. MANUAL. For Bicycle Framebuilders. SUPPLEMEN TED VERSION. Written by: Tim Paterek. Photography by: Kelly Shields, Jens Gunelson, and Tim . DownloadThe paterek manual for bicycle frame builders tim paterek pdf. Before you start, you will need the following software available on your machine. Edition: The Paterek Manual for Bicycle Framebuilders (Shop Version), but it is Manual For Bicycle Frame Builders Tim Paterek Ebook PDF - musicmarkup.info
Drawing: Always work from a scale or full size drawing. This is easy these days as there are so many programs out there. I then get it printed at my local printers or plot giant. You can hand draw as well if you have the time. Do not try and just jot a few numbers down and measure off a old bike. There are many things you need to measure and work out this really will save you time and make sure you make less mistakes. Materials and tools: I will try and list some of the tools I am using in the gear section.
Measuring: You will need to layout the tube set on the drawing and start measuring up. Look at inside fo the tubes to see where the butts run to.
A drawing is really useful as you can notch and mitre the first end of the tube and then lay it down to measure where to cut next. If you have any doubts always cut a mm or two too long so that you can file to the exact length. Cutting: I like to notch the tube first with this tool , then I will hand file to the exact fit. The mitre must be an almost exact match for the tube. You should see no daylight between the joint. You need less than a paper thickness of gap to achieve a strong joint.
Then there is Fillet brazing or Braze welding. Fillet brazing in industry is normally just a fillet laid down on the outside of a joint just as you would weld. The fork dropout or ends may be joined to the fork blades using a similar method as well. The fork crown, which joins the steering tube to the fork blades, may have either an external or internal socket design.
In most lugged steel frames, the lugs have a simple pointed shape. The lug's curves maximize the strength of the joint, while minimizing the possibility of stress risers , which would otherwise make the frame prone to cracking at the end of the lug. At increased expense, frames may have lugs which are cut and filed by hand into fancy shapes, both for slight weight savings and as a display of craftsmanship. In addition many frame builders file the lugs to thin them, in order to reduce stress concentrations.
These ornate or fancy lugs may be painted to accentuate their appearance. Lugged steel frame can be repaired more easily than MIG or TIG welded steel frames; a broken tube can be removed by the application of heat to un-braze known as sweating its joints, enabling tube replacement.
Steel frames generally are easier to repair than aluminium or exotic materials, and for this reason steel frames are preferred by many bicycle tourists ,  who often ride long distances in remote areas. Lugs also reinforce the joints, often resulting in a stronger frame, this gives lugged frames in particular an advantage for touring cyclists.
Types of lug[ edit ] A stainless steel investment cast seat lug, with hand filed cutout, which has been polished to a mirror finish. These lugs necessitate construction with silver rather than brass filler. Traditional stamped lugs aka pressed lugs are formed by pressing sheet steel over a mandrel , bending them to shape, and then welding the seams.
These lugs are of constant thickness resulting in stress risers , if large amounts of file work are not done to alter the thickness of the lug. I had to scrap the original crown, an expensive mistake.
Old adage, measure three times, cut once. Buckling Chain Stays during cold setting. On this occasion I had fitted chain stay gussets for the first time to strengthen the chain stays. The picture looks worse than the reality but I tried various ways to reduce it without success so will not describe them.
Probably thin walled chain stays contributed to this effect but I would be wary of using gussets again. Making sure the cold setting lever is a close fit along the chain stay, or perhaps use hot setting instead. My rear axle jig spacing is 1mm over the intended either side, but there is the alternative of oversizing the rear axle more on the basis bending the chain stays inwards slightly must be less likely to cause buckling.
In the end I filled the defect with silver solder to restore the appearance. Telescoping of the Top Tube into the Seat Tube. This phenomenon caught me completely unawares as I have never heard of it happening or been warned about it.
As the photograph shows there is a donut shaped object visible in the seat tube which is the top tube projecting into it. This can only have been due to softening of the seat tube metal during the fillet brazing process combined with some tightness of the top tube in the jig, though I did not think this was an issue at the time. Also this was silver soldered so the temperature used was less than brass brazing and I used a heat sink.
The tubing was XCR and the seat tube is only 0.
In future I would have to aim for zero tension across the top tube before brazing such thin walled tubing. The frame was fortunately salvaged because the seat tube is oversized and required a shim in any case which could be modified to accommodate the small projection. I am not sure this qualified as cold setting, more brute force. As there was no room in such a small frame to introduce my usual levers I decided to put a foot on it. This was a mistake as you can see.
Initially I was shocked this had happened but on reflection considered the reasons why. Usually I am sure that remedial bending occurs in the tube rather than at the joint.
In this case very short and wide Using my foot and the whole weight of my body was probably too much force. The Right hand stays went rather than the left which may have been due to the application of the force to that side but I realised that I had forgotten to vent that chain stay but carried on regardless and vented the opposite side before brazing. So I suspect non-penetration of the braze may have been a big factor.
Of course better that these things happen before the bike is in use, than after. I levered the stays back to their original position then used a carbide burr on a rotary tool to evacuate the fillet down to the joint and drilled a vent hole in the bottom bracket.
Re-brazing the joint hopefully has remedied the initial weakness, and miraculously the rear spacing was spot on afterwards! I prepped the seat tube as the TT.
Fortunately it was just rectifiable.