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In this issue, we set out to do three things: And though he never intended to be a fashion icon, nobody has inuenced designers more than shaggy thrift-store loafer Kurt Cobain. Woke up like this? He actually did. The snow melts away. The flowers bloom.

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GQ India - October Alfred Einstein. My speaking abilities could be scored as 6. So don't hesitate to write me, if you are interested in. Iriwka Gordeeva. Dmitrii Chernin. Dmitrii ,. British GQ - July GQ Australia — February 17, The Hollywood Reporter — South Africa's most stylish men's magazine GQ South Africa is the first and last word on men's style.

The exhausting fascination with sex combined with a total lack of interest in women. The thoughtless entitlement of it all. This magazine is about instruction, on some level; we are here to help. So let us be clear: Dont do this. Dont be these men in But this magazine is also about style, and here I think Ebert had it right about Beatty: He isnt narcissistic about himself, but about his style; hes in love with conning people.

Beattys swagger had a purpose. His style had a goal. I am not sure what to say about the feathered hair; lets just say it was in fact feathered and leave it at that. But cmon. Shampoo alone: Beatty, draped in lavender and turquoise and leather and precious metal.

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Riding a Triumph motorcycle in a Henley and aviators like some ancient fertility god. He wore giant ties, he wore fawn-colored jackets, he wore big silver belts, he wore many silvery necklaces, he wore many silvery rings.

Or Beatty in The Parallax View, in denim and a crisp white shirt, its collar like two great wings. He did not leave his own magnetism to doubt. On-screen, as in life, Beatty was a peacockhed ascended to that place where there was no sartorial gesture too big to make. The neediness of his personality fueled the brazenness of the clothes.

He was a walking neon sign: Look at me. Our stars now, by and large, are dident. Their style is deferential. They make whatever handsomeness or verve they have seem almost accidentalMe? All these tastefully tailored red-carpet suits, studiously o-duty Starbucksrun hoodies, and expensively casual sneakers. What a dull performance of modesty. The brazen, unreflective self-absorption of the 70s stars is best left as an artifact, sure. Levitate less.

Live more. Aged Without Acid The difference between the acid-washed 90s and the current era of pre-distressing is that, these days, thanks to top-secret modern techniques developed by fashion scientists, the scuffing looks authentic.

Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane: But, boy, has he ever. And as Alice Gregory reminds us, the fact that he really didnt care is exactly why everyone else still does. I IN , the year between the releases of Nirvanas Nevermind and In Utero, a year-old Marc Jacobswho had never been to Seattle sent stringy-haired models down the Perry Ellis runway in cashmere plaids and silk nightgowns made to look like polyester.

Christy Turlington slouched in pale, ill-tting khakis barely held up by a belt; Kate Moss stomped through in combat boots; Helena Christensen wore a choker, Naomi Campbell a beanie. Recordings by Sonic Youth and L7 roared over the audience. Steven Meisel shot pictures of the clothes for Vogue, but they were never put into production.

Jacobs was almost immediately red. Before he left, he sent samples of the collection to its muse, Kurt Cobain, and his wife, Courtney Love, who upon receipt proceeded to burn them. We were punkers, Love recalled in We didnt like that kind of thing. Almost 25 years later, grunge draws the same fascination from the outside. Saint Laurents spring collection was all alien sunglasses and slumped shoulders.

One can hardly imagine its late owner, Cobain, who once wrote in a journal that he liked to make people feel happy and superior in their reaction towards my appearance, being too pleased. Cobain wasand remainsthe paradigm of cool in the minds of those charged with manufacturing it. Though apathetic posturing is everywhere on runways, in classrooms , genuine indierence is rare and pursued aggressively by those who market its eect: Authentic aloofness like Kurt Cobains is the hardest thing to imitate and the quality of coolness coveted more than pretty much any other.

Its true, though. He seems to have only ever worn natural bers, and all of them were washed soft: Its hard to picture him in direct sunlight or in temperatures exceeding 55 degrees. Then there were the physical traces of domestic lifethose baby bottles hed carry around, the leopard-print coat that hed let hang from his shoulders like a robe. But even married and with a baby, Cobain who allegedly wouldnt eat anything green remained himself boyish, and pictures of him drinking strawberry Quik and cuddling a kitten only helped highlight his vulnerability.

His dirtinessthe greasy bangs, the pimples, the hangnailsmake him look less like a grubby man and more like a kid you want to wrap in a towel after a long bath. Two decades before Kanye West wore a Givenchy leather skirt onstage or Hood By Airs Shayne Oliver began sending men down the runway in clothes ostensibly for women, Cobain was borrowing slinky slips from his wife and wearing Peter Pancollar dresses to concerts.

The hems were frayed, the colors faded; everything looked secondhand. It was an antidote to the sequins and hair spray and exaggerated silhouettes embraced just a few years earlier by even the most androgynous rock icons. I denitely feel closer to the feminine side of the human being than I do the maleor the American idea of what a male is supposed to be, he once said.

Just watch a beer commercial and youll see what I mean. Predictably, Cobains image is inspiring not only to men but also to women, many of whom pay thousands of dollars annually to hairdressers who can successfully approximate his blond highlights, which, even weeks unwashed and frizzed with the static of a ski cap, looked better than Grace Kellys. Nostalgia dictates that fashion trends tend to rear their heads roughly 20 years after they were rst introducedi.

And so, predictably, the early 90s came back about ve years ago, right on schedule, and for a while there, Cobain was quite literally a Halloween costume: In , the designer-fashion interpretations continue to abound. Sneakers come pre-scued; denim comes pre-ripped; the outerwear is armysurplus-inspired. At least the grooming has evolved. A monthly haircut remains optional, but a shower does not.

His early life reads like the outline of a Raymond Carver short story. It was both generically grim divorced parents, school bullying, grueling hospitality jobs and acutely ruthless he was intermittently homeless as a teenager and then worked as a janitor at the same high school hed dropped out of. It wasnt until he formed Nirvana, at the age of 20 with bassist Krist Novoselic, that his life began to take on the surreal dimensions that would lead him around the world before imploding and making him, forever 27, an icon of tortured genius.

Nevermind, the bands second and most successful album, was released in , and its rst single, Smells Like Teen Spirit, premiered on MTV that September. Cobain watched it in a hotel room and called his mother. That fall, the band played televised, oversold concerts in Europe; Smells Like Teen Spirit decimated the radio; and by the album rose to No. To date, it has sold almost 30 million copies worldwide. By the time In Utero, their third, nal studio album, came out in , Nirvana, and Cobain in particular, were about as famous as anyone could be.

They went on a European tour in and played their nal concert in Munich in March. Three days later, in Rome, Love found Cobain unconscious in their hotel roomdoctors said it was a reaction to alcohol and rooesand the rest of the tour was canceled. Cobain began using heroin again and soon checked himself into rehab.

Frances Bean, his daughter with Love, was not even 2. After less than a week, he escaped the facility, returned home to Seattle, and a few days later shot himself in the head. The peak of their angsty fame coincided with both an international recession and the pharmaceutical industrys attempt, with Prozac, to cure depression.

Cobain and his bandmates, with their thrift-store rags, working-class roots, and transparency about their own perhaps pathologically glum moods, sang for an underemployed generation newly aware of its own low serotonin levels. The enduring and perhaps apocryphal quotes he remains known forA friend is nothing but a known enemy; Id rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I am notand his refusal to relocate to Los Angeles or New York City echoed the navit and self-righteousness of teenagers.

And like them, he preferred his melodrama masked as gravity. He often spoke aphoristically and in a way so perfectly calibrated to the adolescents intolerant idealism that one thinks it might have been a put-on.

The duty of youth, he supposedly said, is to challenge corruption. And then there was all the prankish behavior. The time he posed for a Rolling Stone cover in a T-shirt reading corporate magazines still suck. The time he started a food ght and was kicked out of a party hosted by David Geen in the bands honor.

Through it all, Cobain wore the same stained and tattered garments that he always had and that many of his young fans wore out of nancial necessity. Though he was worth millions by this point, his clothes had become a costume, and he was imitating, in good faith, the person he once was. In the two decades after his death, Cobain has taken on the stature of a modern-day saint: Its an appealingif outlandishfantasy to project on any single, awed individual, especially one with serious mental-health issues.

And like most rmly held beliefs, it serves a practical purpose in the minds of its disciples: It allows us to celebrate our small lives with relief. Because though most people will confess that a tiny part of them has always hoped for fame, any sane civilian with even a half-functioning imagination must admit celebrity sounds terrible, that it is something only a psychotic person could ever fully desire.

The notion that party invitations, free stu, and even fans could make any of the pro forma privacy breaches worth it seems absurd. The objective reality of a famous persons life reads like the transcript of a nonfamous persons nightmare.

Cobains iconoclasm, then, is exquisitely oxymoronic. Symbols are supposed to stand for one thing, and yet Cobain has come to represent so many conicting ones.

Paternal but opiateaddicted, ambitious but suicidal, goofy but selflacerating, gun-loving but feminist, famous but reclusive, he was able to at once denounce and embrace the system that celebrated and commodied him. Its equally evident in his aggressive but tender music and in his selfcaricaturing wardrobe. As he himself sang, I dont know why Id rather be dead than cool. Yet, since his death, his influence on fashion has been as strong and consistent as anyone elses.

Close to the Hip Your mission: Find a pair of cargos with slim structured pockets that lie flat against your body. The look should be streamlined, not saggy. Calvin Klein Collection: The Great Gatsby. We also know he can look schlubby. But his ot-forgotten Blood Diamond lookwashedout military surplus in shades of olivewas ahead of its time. Were putting it here in case Kanye needs it for his next inspiration board.

With pockets in clever new locationsnot hanging like saddlebags off your thighsyoull be ready when the zombies attack. In the meantime: Am I allowed to actually use all these new pockets? Indeed you are. That is what theyre made for. But it sends the wrong signal about you and your clothes if you look like youre tentcamping outside a Jack Johnson concert with 48 pounds of dry goods shoved into a bulging thigh-pouch.

For maximum stylishness, keep your legs slim by following these simple guidelines for storing your cargo. Breath mints 6. Sentimental knickknacks from deceased relatives 7.

Juicy Fruit 8. Listerine bottles 6. Enormous key rings, unless you are a jail warden in 7. Big League Chew 8. Headphones noise-canceling. Just how long should my shorts be? Am I too Euro with a five-inch inseam? Is it possible to cover my knees without looking too bro? The answer is: You can go short, medium, or long, provided that you keep them all perfectly slimbut sorry, you still cant go below your kneecaps.

At the height of his I dont want to be famous fame, Eddie Vedderr had the hunky-slacker thing down, with boots and shorts that appeared ready to hike Mount Rainier. Weirdly, this look has held up better than Even Flow. Crazy-handsome and born with the style gene, JFK Jr. The shorts hes wearing here might take a bit of confidence and a few extra squats to pull off. But as youll see in this chapter, youve got choices at every length if your upper thighs arent ready for their close-up.

Break out the ruler and measure the inseam on your favorite pair of shorts. Then go shopping. I think shorts are loosening up. Youre starting to see the juxtaposition of looser, more casual pairs mixed with a dressier topor what I call a third piece: Short and to the Point A pair of short-ish printed shorts calls for colors.

Because your clothes cant be all serious all summer. Shorts Michael Bastian: Long and Strong See the on-seam pockets and waist-extension tab? These are dress shorts. An oxford with laceups is the move. Shorts David Hart: Nothing wrong with that, but lately weve been getting re-acquainted with foot underwear.

There are more sock options than everfrom classic to zany and they all still serve three valiant purposes: Whats the point of shelling out extra coin for expensive socks? Cant I just download them at Walmart? Sure, you can. But the next time you go over to someones house and they ask you to remove your shoes, youll be sorry you did. And heres a pro tip: Wool keeps your feet drier than cotton, which means less odor. So wear stylish, summer-friendly thin wool socks with your loafers or boat shoes and youll be ready to put your feet up.

May we suggest a colorful transfusion? Smart Turnout: Anonymous Ism: Etiquette Clothiers: American Apparel: American Trench: Nice Laundry: The Tie Bar: Sure Beats Pasty Ankles If your legs havent seen the sun in nine months, we humbly suggestfor everyones sake easing into spring with a nice pair of striped socks.

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Youll have plenty of time to strip em off once youve got the seasons first tan. Socks Smart Turnout: Men of styleand also Anthony Kiedis 1 understand the myriad ways a sock can be deployed. David Hockney 3 mismatched his. And if MJ 2 hadnt drawn our attention to his feet with all those white spangles, his moonwalk wouldnt have been quite so otherworldly. Warmweather fabrics like linen and silk carry a relaxed, backyardwedding vibe, but theyve got just enough structure to be snazzed up and worn to work.

The little bumps and ridges add character and pretty much beg to be touched. Go aheadyour suits have never felt so good. We are ardent fans of the khaki-colored cotton suit, but we gotta say, this sand-colored linen number Eddie Redmayne wore to the Toronto Film Festival has way more intrigue. The color is unexpected, the lightweight linen means you keep your cool, and the texture makes people take a second look and a photo. Suit Polo Ralph Lauren: All these tiny white flecks make an autumnal color like rusty brown look spring-ready.

You know what looks good with a scratchy suit? A similarly coarseknit silk tie. These things used to fit like burlap sacks. Now yours should fit like the rest of your suits, which is to say: The linen suit of is light. Most of our grandfathers suits were heavy! The fabrics, even linen, tended to be really gutsy so they would last longer. You had heavily padded chests and thick wadding in the shoulders to cut a very precise, formal line. Now the best ones are completely deconstructed so the fabric takes on your own shape.

Yours should be unlined and cut in a solid or subtle pattern that can be broken up and easily mixed with the rest of your casual clothes. Neither are we. Thats why we love the humble cotton bandanna. Sports jacket Giorgio Armani: This rumpled jacket is so chill you can go double-breasted without looking like a peacock.

Jacket Dsquared2: Blazin Up You remember how, a few years ago, guys learned to wear blue jeans with blazers? Well, track pants are the new jeans. So you know what that means. Blacked Out To look like you have a membership at the fancy gym of the future, make sure the fit of your new tracksuit is streamlined, just like this. But now even the high-end luxury lines are getting in on the game, styling jogging pants with blazers like it aint no thang.

In this much is clear: Mixing tailored and sporty gear isnt just a lookits the modern way of life. And it all starts with the right tracksuit. How to Stay on Track We love track jackets, but they must be deployed carefully.

For all those guys, we have two words: Paul Newman. He had some mileage on him when this picture was snapped, but he still wore his track jacket with utter easeas if it were simply a sportier sport coat. He wore track jackets all the time, actually backstage with skinny jeans, offstage with a spliff between his fingersbut this time photographer Adrian Boot was there to immortalize the full look: The M jacket became such an enduring artifact of cool that, in , Marleys daughter Cedella launched a line of clothes Marley Apparel inspired by Bobs soccer gear.

So now you can have your own, shin guards not included. There was a movie in the 90svery, very famous here in Francecalled La Haine, with Vincent Cassel, that was a big inspiration. Yannick Noah was another inspiration. I like to wear this look myself now: I have lots of vintage Adidas tracksuits and track jackets, and I like to wear them with a beautiful coat oversize, double-breasted, herringbone , classic trousers, and a pair of white trainers.

Whats more American than red-white-andblue sportswear with a popped collar and a windswept haircut? Robert Redfords brand of patriotism is one we can all aspire to, with a single caveat: You can go shirtless under your track jacket only if youre built like a golden god.

Representing mighty Brazil, he wore the most iconic jersey in all of sports. Even the way he playedelegantly, effortlesslywas stylish. But as Jesse Katz explains, Pel became a legend of global proportions for the way he carried himself off the field. Pel was still a kid, only 25, radiant and weightless, the face of a young and developing nation that had stutter-stepped its way into the games global elite.

In the stands of Rios grand Maracan, Robert F. Kennedy was looking very much like a presidential candidate, touring South America two years after his brothers assassination, two and a half before his own.

Every time Pel touched the ball in his snug canary yellow jersey with emerald trim, a uniform as iconic as Yankee pinstripes, , futebol-mad Brazilians roared. He played with a transparent exuberance, a contagious optimism, his floppy collar billowing like a flag as he juked and whirled his way down the pitch. And when he finally split two defenders with a shimmyright, cut-left gallop and shot a laser past the outstretched arms of the mammoth Soviet goalie,.

Bobby Kennedy sprang to his feet, applauding everything fabulous and opportune about a dazzling black man from the Americas schooling a pasty Communist empire. If Pels goal were the highlight of that November day half a century ago, it would have faded by now, just one of 1, over a career that stretched from the Peixe of Santos to the Cosmos of New York, a record three World Cup victories in between. This was a friendly match, the final score meaningless, but that did not stop the U.

The photo of that encounter RFK in a slender charcoal suit and tie, O Rei bare-chested and weirdly lathered in soap, only a terry-cloth towel cinched around his waistis the image worth treasuring.

Can you picture a reunion like that today, with the egos and entitlements that nine-figure contracts beget, not to mention the gatekeepers assigned to prevent just such a wardrobe malfunction? To think that someone must have hollered at Pel to hurry it up and get his ass out before he even had a chance to rinse o? And yet there he is, the planets first truly international celebrity athlete, half-naked, dripping wet, lubed up, and utterly unrued, apparently delighted to have his privacy breached by such an illustrious intruder.

They smile, they shake. Kennedy wraps a wool sleeve around Pels glistening neck, and Pel, who would have been more than justified. If other men need clothes to define their style, you could say Pel was more stylish, his mystique more transcendent, the less he had on. There was more disrobing in those days, theatrical and ritualized, a communion between Pel and his public. In , when his Santos team won South Americas most prestigious tournament, the Copa Libertadores, spectators in Buenos Aires swarmed the field, and in the scramble for souvenirs, the fans removed literally every piece of clothing from my body!

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It was such a thorough mauling, a Brazilian newspaper went with the headline a strip-tease, by the black king of football. In , when he won his final World Cup, the fans in Mexico Citys Estadio Azteca again mobbed him, except this time, Pel recalls, I made sure to take my shirt o myself so that my head didnt go with it. His head, instead, received a giant sombrero. And in , after his farewell game with the Cosmos, he was shirtless once more, hoisted onto the shoulders of his teammates and paraded around Giants Stadium in the rain, as viewers in 40 nations watched him wave tiny Brazilian and U.

Pel was beloved for the way he played and for the way he lived, for the joy he exuded. It was as if he were oering himself up to the world, literally giving the shirt o his back, erasing barriers and divisions by leaving so little of himself concealed. When Pel later in life recognized how easily he could monetize his wardrobe, something magical was lost. He has done his cool no favors by donning a Pepsi tracksuit, a Subway dry-fit, a Volkswagen golf shirt, or a navy blazer with the MasterCard logo on his breast.

But if dressing as a billboard. Pel didnt just help create that fantasy; he really lived it. The boy born Edson Arantes do Nascimento in was raised in the provincial crossroads of Bauru, several hours inland from So Paulo. His father, a semi-pro soccer player whose career had been cut short by a knee injury, struggled to get by on the salary of a hospital orderly.

His mother never let anyone forget it. Pela nickname, for all its jauntiness, with no meaning in Portuguesegrew up wearing shirts fashioned from wheat sacks and hand-me-down shorts forever in need of darning. His soccer ball was a sock, occasionally filched from a neighborhood clothesline and stued with rags.

He played his first games with a team of urchins: They called themselves the Shoeless Ones. When the Shoeless Ones reached school age and needed uniforms to solidify their status,. Pel tried to hustle up a few cruzeiros by scavenging scrap metal and recycling cigarette butts.

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In a moment of desperation, he joined his buddies in a peanut heist, raiding a railcar and re-selling the spoils at the movies and the circus. As a year-old prodigy, when he left home for the soccer club in the Atlantic Coast port of Santos, Pel was such a product of the sticks that he had never owned a pair of long pants. Look at you! You look like a pig. You cant go in short pantsthe people on the train will laugh at you. For the first fifteen years of my life my clothes had only had to suit the way Id spent my time, playing football on the streets, he writes in Pel: The Autobiography.

Id never worried about smart clothes.

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What happened next is the stu of soccer dreams, the fantasy of millions of poor kids in the worlds favelas and townships and villas miserias. Brazils Seleo may be an institution. He was so slight and unknown, a skinny little black boy in the uniform of Brazil, as he puts it, that he assumed the crowds in Sweden that year took him for the teams mascot. But he was already fast and creative, with an arsenal of feints and pivots and bursts, so unlike the rough, defensive approach of the Europeans.

His six-goal performance, including a high-flying header in the waning seconds of the triumphant finale, encouraged the idea that Brazilians played not just better but more beautifullythat in the face of inequity, as the practitioners of samba and capoeira had shown us, exquisite movement could set you free.

After ending Brazils World Cup drought, Pel was everywhere, his gleaming smile and heavylidded eyes like a tourist-bureau ad for everything warm and welcoming about his homeland. Whatever he put onchecked button-front camp shirt, striped pullover, waffle-knit cardigan seemed designed to achieve what we might call Cosmopolitan Casual, like a Rat Packer doing Palm Springs.

It helped to be not a weightlifting beefcake but a fleet-footed escape artist, supple and sinewy, with a physique he refers to as hidden strength. Blessed with it, he wore a polo more perfectly than anybody: Overnight Pel became a box-oce draw, his Santos club no longer a regional act. He barnstormed like the Harlem Globetrotters,. If Muhammad Ali was the only other athlete who could command such universal reverence, keep in mind that The Greatest fought 61 times; Pel, in the end, appeared in more than 1, matches.

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As the poster boy for o jogo bonito, he put Brazil on the map at a time when Latin America tended to be overlooked or at least condescended to, especially where its indigenous or Creole populations were concerned. After , the Brazilian was no longer a mongrel among men, the playwright Nelson Rodrigues famously wrote, and Brazil was no longer a mongrel among nations.

Pel stood for social mobility and racial democracymyths perhaps, even propaganda tools for the military regime that would rule Brazil from the s to the s, and yet ideals nonetheless worth cheering for.

Pel carried the mantle lightly. In a sport that has produced and devoured many a roguish hero, he was a good citizen on and o the field, albeit an occasional philanderer. On that first World Cup expedition, Pel basked in the attention of the Swedish girls, who were so mesmerized by his complexion they could not stop stroking his face, as if they found it odd that my color didnt run. He had begun a long, chaste courtship of his first bride, a Brazilian of German descent, when he was 17 and she was just 14; as the first black visitor to her home, Pel arrived like the good boy I wasin my best clothes, shoes shined, my nails cut and cleaned, my face glowing!

The organizers of matches in countries unaccustomed to black athletes would sometimes ask Pel to wear a white armband so that fans could tell him apart from any equally dark-skinned teammate.

I guess such requests seem a bit obnoxious in todays context, he writes, but I was having too much fun to really care. If his fans at home sometimes wished for a more progressive champion, the rest of the world was enchanted.

How he played, how he dressed, how he spoke, how he celebratedit required no translation. Pel was exotic yet accessible, a prophet and a gentleman, and those who loved him often saw in his dexterity proof of their own cultural sophistication. While on his honeymoon in , touring Europe in skinny black suits and ties, Pel was summoned to the Vatican for an audience with Pope Paul VI. The Shah of Iran. An oft-repeated story has Nigeria suspending its civil war with Biafran rebels for 48 hours so that Pels squad could play a match in Lagos.

Toward the end of his playing days, so many opponents wanted to swap shirts with Pel that the Cosmos had to have a couple of dozen on hand for every game. By then he was a fixture of 70s Manhattan glam, hitting Studio 54 in cream-colored disco suits, a blonde Velcroed to each arm, looking like a Roman emperor reclining on a gilded divan with toga-clad damsels feeding him grapes, as one of his co-authors, David Hirshey, has written. Asked at that time to explain the meaning of his fame, he went third person: Pel has no color.

Pel has no religion. And Pel has no race. Pel is universal. It was all trueor at least it was true to the way Pel had experienced the world, to the way he saw and carried himself. If that made him willfully blind at times, it also allowed him to be a visionary, to wander from arena to arena, continent to continent, with a kind of divine grace. All of which is what drew a Kennedy to the dressing room in an age of idealismand what draws us still, nostalgic for the same.

Were here to help you find the clothes; the only things you cant download are the six-pack and the swagger. The blue blazer is pretty traditionally British, isnt it?

You always think of it as coming from a military source, or clubslike the cricket club, or the rowing club, or the tennis club. When people talk about sportswear, I always think of a blue blazer, not a nylon outerwear piece. Thats about as sporty as I ever want to get. We did, and wed lost that lovin feelin for old-money clothes until we saw this seasons blue blazers.

Yeah, they still work with ties. But now they also work with hoodies, turtlenecks, tees, and gasp! Todays look is younger and more irreverent, the fashion equivalent of listening to Wu-Tang on your way to the squash court. In its preppiest form, a navy blazer has patch pockets, which make a slightly bigger style statement. The most important thing to look for in a blue blazer isnt actually blue its those highprep gold buttons. This Jacket Skips Class Nobody dresses like this on campus anymore, which means the look is finally shedding its Ivy League baggage.

Go ahead, take back the blue blazer. Blazer Dunhill: Let us count the ways. The scru. The hairstyle. The tats. The skinny t. The company he keeps. Because theres no way Posh wants a sti on her arm. Kiss This Brass If youre the kind of guy who monograms everything or adds a DIY patch to your denim jacket just to make it more yours, swap out your blazer buttons for ones with personalityeven if its a pineapple.

You think a polo is too pedestrian? Check out Mick Jagger, the very picture of raffish sophistication in a polo and jacket. The guy is living proof that polos can be rock n roll if youve got the mojo and the hair to back it up. Polos are just as easy to wear, and they make it look like you actually tried. Truth be told, I basically made a pair of white chinos for myself, and I worked them into the collection. Theyre a personal favorite, and I wear them all the time.

Its a different look, because I was going for a stiffer chino rather than a linen. I was basically trying to do a fashion version of Dickies, which are wide-leg. I wanted these to be twice as wide. If khakis are conservative basics for cubicle dwellers, whites make you feel like Gatsbyor a well-traveled playboy. They suggest that youre not the kind of guy who worries about fitting in or spilling wine and that at the blink of an eye you could disappear to a far-flung French resort.

Herbie Hancock did the soundtrack. The plot was set in Swinging London. And lead actor David Hemmings played a fashion photographer in perfect white trousers. White pants are built for vacation the same trip where youre breaking in your new fedora. Remember this equation: Brown plus blue and some white, too equals timeless style. Pants Brunello Cucinelli: White can look a little flat, so add texture with a denim shirt, a plaid jacket, and burnished shoes.

You wont look like a try-hard if you crop your hems and slip into your favorite invisible socks. Bronzed to Perfection Whether youre lying out by the pool or carving up the highway in a convertible, these are your new summer sun blockers. Theres an easier path than visiting a shrink or getting Lasik: Filter your worldview through some tinted sunglasses. Yellow makes everything seem sunnier. Smoky brown makes you exactly 86 percent more mysterious.

Pick your color and start seeing the same old world through a whole new lens. We thought wed seen Steve McQueen master every move in the menswear playbook, and then along came this photo and we had to add another to the list. Of course McQueen wore tinted glasses: The tint is such an Old Hollywood trick, keeping the outside world at a distance while still showing everyone exactly what they cant touch.

Its not just for traffic cones anymore. The color was all over the runways this season from pants to raincoats to ties , and were pleasantly surprised to report that it looked damned good. Maybe the surprise factor is exactly why it worksit turns out that highlighter orange highlights everything else youre wearing. As these four fearless gentlemen prove, the only thing you gotta have is a little courage. Color is something youve got to be very aware of as a man. Fashion designers might show an entire orange suit, but of course only two people could wear it like that.

The rest of us might wear an orange pair of pants rolled up on holiday, with a white T-shirt and flipflops. Or youd wear an orange T-shirt under a navy blue suit.

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Put an orange cashmere sweater round your neck and walk down to the restaurant. We dont think so. And as Michael Hainey explains, its easier than you might think to dress like a masterpiece. And why not?