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The nouvelle cuisine style of plating reaches its zenith with the approach championed by such chefs as Alain Ducasse and Pierre Gagnaire, both stars of the contemporary culinary scene. In molecular gastronomy or modernist cuisine, as it is sometimes called , the creation of new flavours and invention of new presentation styles go hand in hand.
These two elements, which were previously considered distinct, are now interlaced in the process of culinary creation. Molecular cuisine, to put it simply, is a set of technologies and ingredients used to produce a new style of high-end dining presentation. Through this new technique, food can be abstracted from its original form, giving rise to previously unexplored shapes and textures such as the now all too famous foams, gels and spherifications [ 25 ].
Presentation is a hidden force, guiding the process of culinary innovation. As such, it has begun to impact the expectations, experiences and memories of the diners, and is progressively building new habits and culture beyond the high-end restaurants, in supermarkets, fine grocery shops and home cooking. They are also an avant-garde where the new generations of chefs and diners set their new standards.
Plating can create new flavours As an outcome of molecular gastronomy, often both the meal and the means of presentation interact when planning a dish.
You have a starting point and then you develop it further and constantly optimize it; in terms of the visual presentation so you can reveal the secret of each ingredient in its purest form with excellent flavour and in harmony with the others. The presentation of a dish teaches me new rules of harmony and through this exercise, I find a form of peace.
I always have to position my cuisine visually. In this I am guided by my instinct, which helps me perceive qualities and flaws and from time to time, reveals new flavours to me. Michel Troisgros used to call it the tale. The dish must tell a tale. The dinner must know where to start and where to arrive in order to perceive all the right flavours.
Just like when you read a canvas. Use plating to enhance the uniqueness of the experience Currently, there is something of a trend toward a more product-oriented approach, together with a respect for the nature of the ingredients, and a tendency for the tableside service to become much more theatrical in nature. The finest of ingredients, produced by committed farmers, are not just cooked but interpreted by chefs and emerging culinary artists. Though the insistence is on seasonality, as in the Japanese style, uniqueness is really what is at the centre, and extends from plating to products themselves.
This direction shows how the concept of originality first applied to presentation is now transforming culinary preparation and foods themselves.
Products are now uniquely sourced or even specifically designed in the backstage kitchen; foods that only belong to the here and now of the restaurant experience, as with artists preparing their own pigments.
Some of the dishes are carefully designed so as to display and enhance the ingredients or to show off the cooking procedure that has been used. With these new trends, we are entering a new revolution. They now form one of the multisensory keys that the chefs and staff in prestigious restaurants can use in what can be considered a new form of performance art, the staging and orchestrating of culinary experiences.
The elBulli restaurant in Spain used to be famous for closing for almost 6 months a year, time that the creative team would use to attend specialized courses, gather new ingredients and equipment, travel to different continents and cooperate with other industries.
Reproduced by permission of Reiko Kaneko. This creation points toward another trend that we expect to grow; where the plate itself disappears in the background of the performance, or even disappears totally to heighten the theatrical and active aspect of food delivery.
Open image in new window Figure 6 Bacon hung from a steel bow designed by Crucial Detail for the Alinea restaurant in Chicago. Reproduced by permission of Martin Kastner. Innovative chefs, striving to present their dishes in the most uncommon and memorable of ways while also telling a story , are using any kind of material on which it feels right to place food. Take, for instance, the chicken liver parfait that came on a caramel-glazed red house brick, served in a London restaurant in [ 32 ].
Other natural options are also increasingly being used, such as slices of tree trunk, hay or plant leaves.
The involvement of natural materials in the presentation of the dish may be designed to release an aroma; but at the same time, one imagines, such naturally congruent plate ware is meant to intensify the freshness of the ingredients, maybe suggesting some additional information on the dish. Interestingly, gastronomy then seems to repeat the artistic movements that have marked the visual arts; here ready-made, there with explicit references to their unisensory painted predecessors.
This referential dimension is important when revisiting the status of gastronomy as an art, as some want to see it as a characteristic of artistic creation [ 33 ]. In a dish that goes by the name of Squab, no plates or similar receptacles are to be seen. The waiters simply bring a set of nine forks and spoons, each containing morsels of different foods, and then arrange the cutlery in an apparently random manner a different arrangement for each diner. Open image in new window Figure 7 Inspiration from art.
The waiter slashes the immaculate surface with a knife in front of the client, unveiling the black matter lying underneath. The link to artworks emerges from the subconscious, it remains infused in me.
B Concetto Spaziale, Attesa. Spatial Concept, Expectation, by Lucio Fontana, At Noma, for instance, the diners are told by the waiter that their first two courses are already on the table. This all seems very strange, as there is nothing on the table.
Well, nothing, apart from a collection of plant pots in the centre the clue being given by the fact that there are exactly as many flowerpots as there are diners at the table.
This example, in our sense, leads to the last change introduced by the new art of plating. Basically, the empty pot is the only thing that the diner should leave on the table!
Figure 11 Edible Stones , Mugaritz Restaurant. There will be occasions where the plate ware itself may be conspicuous by its very absence, that is, the food is served directly onto the table itself. At Alinea, a number of the desserts require a performance that can last for several minutes.
First, the waiters lay a waterproof tablecloth over the table. They then bring all sorts of small ramekins and bowls with sauces and other ingredients with different textures.
That is, they will start breaking solid elements, painting with liquids both drop-by-drop and by splashing , and spreading powders, with all the aesthetic skill, delicacy and control that only the best artists have.
Reproduced by permission of Betina Piqueras-Fiszman. Turn to the science of plating As philosopher, designer, chef and scientist, we consider that the long history of plating, and the new trends we have described, is calling for a novel investigation into the aesthetic of food presentation.
We are especially interested in the potential this new area offers for synergistic collaboration between the kitchen and the laboratory. With plating and food presentation, the benefits of the collaboration could extend not just to the experience itself, but also to the expectations generated by the sight of a complex plate, or the memory of eating its contents.
However closely related the quests for new flavours and novel presentations are, there is still a division of methods that remains surprisingly dominant, and which it is our goal to remedy. Chefs, or the innovative industries, have tended to blend their art with science in order to create new techniques and flavours, or to improve on existing ones; but they keep relying merely on their intuition when it comes to the visual presentation of foods, neglecting the science emerging behind this side of culinary creation.
However, the collaboration between chefs, scientists, psychologists and designers, also encouraged by these famous chefs, is still much focused on the preparation of food: Our eyes, minds and palates have now to turn to the plate and understand the many influences that serving can exert on the perception of a dish. Endnotes aMore prosaically, the evolution of plating that took place can also be attributed to one really important technological innovation that transformed the kitchen after the Second World War, namely, the refrigerator!
More products became available, of substantially higher quality, thus enriching the colour and variety of ingredients that the cook could obtain. These chefs all worked in the kitchens of elBulli at some point in their career, indicating the importance of this restaurant on contemporary dining practice. Notes Acknowledgements OD wishes to thank the audience at the University of Toronto, the Royal Institution and La Triennale di Milano for their comments on earlier presentations of this work.
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